Back to Gruissan.

The wind never seems to drop for long on that part of the French south coast. The Mistral whistles down the Rhone valley and out to the sea and further south, around Narbonne and Gruissan, the Tramontane wind drops down from the Pyrenees in the south and the Massif Central to the north, then out to sea.

All the time we were at Carro the wind never really dropped much although we were able to sit outside for a while. After four days we headed back across the Camargue and back to Gruissan where the wind was much lighter. The good news is that the sun shone all day and every day.

Back at Gruissan we managed to bag our favourite corner spot and after a couple of breezy days the wind dropped and the weather was brilliant.

Kate enjoying the sun

We spent two weeks enjoying the spring weather, spending lots of time in the sun and me going off on the bike for a ride along the coast and through the vineyards.

A little bimble along the coast

Eventually the weather looked as though it was going to change which seemed a good time to retreat towards home.

We intended to make it a leisurely drive back, stopping for a day or two here and there as the fancy took us. In the event the weather took over and it was a much quicker return north. There just didn’t seem much point sitting in the van looking out at the rain, we might as well be on the road and making progress.

So, now we are back at our French ‘home from home’ at La Mailleraye-sur-Seine having taken just three days to get back here. We stopped at the free aires of Montpeyroux, just south of Clermont-Ferand, then Sully-sur-Loire.

Tomorrow, Saturday, we drive up to Calais and on Sunday morning take the shuttle home to Blighty.

We never did get to Portugal as planned, maybe some other time.

I hear reports that March in England has been one of the wettest on record while we have only had a few showers on the way back north. 

There are worse places than the south of France to spend March.

Old Gruissan

Spring Saunter.

It is early March and that means, for the meteorologists, it’s now spring. 

That also means we are on a search for some early sun and warmth so are heading south once again.

We have had a couple of mini jaunts already this year, a week in a rather chilly and wet Derbyshire and a quick one nighter to Staffordshire to get the habitation/damp check done on the van.

Before all that we had a long wait for a new windscreen to be sent from Germany after a large crack appeared during a short break to Northern France in December.

At last all the home jobs and motorhome services were done and we were free to leave for our planned trip.

Not, as usual, that much had been planned. Last year we met up with friends while down at Gruissan and they were singing the praises of Portugal and gave us details of a few aires and camping spots that they liked. About three years previously we had spent some time in Portugal and really liked the more northern parts but not the very built up Algarve. This time the very rough and ready plan was to head for rural Portugal and hope to find some warmth and sun.

Leaving home at mid-day on a Saturday we took the tunnel and stayed at Cite Europe for the first night. Next day we travelled down to La Mailleraye-sur-Seine, one of our favourite stopping places, beside the river. This year the price has been increased a little to €6.80 a night for two people. Despite all the services being closed for winter the price was still charged. With everything covered over I couldn’t even empty the cassette.

Next day we continued south and thought we might try the aire on an island in the middle of the Loire at Saumur. Although quite expensive for an aire, at around €12, it has all facilities and hook-up and we thought it would be good to explore Saumur again. When we arrived we took a look and both decided that we were very underwhelmed. We carried on for a few more km to the free aire at Montreuil-Belay where we have stopped before.

Those who have read our blog will have seen lots of photos of the places described as we have stopped at them several times in the past. For that reason I haven’t added any photos this time.

The aire at Montreuil-Belay has changed though. The old aire was just a piece of rough land used as a carpark but had lovely views of the chateau and the old monastic buildings. The aire has now been moved to the far side of the adjacent camp site and is purpose built and laid out with proper access roads (GPS 47.13085º -0.16048º). There should be space for around 30 vans. Although it’s not quite finished there are all services and cables are in place for electric hook-ups to be installed. There are also cables in place for a barrier system to be put in so it will no longer be a free stopover. Unfortunately it is also a little closer to the busy main road so not a quiet as before and you lose most of those views of the chateau.

On Tuesday we took another jump south to the old wine town of Blaye, north of Bordeaux and sitting on the banks of the Gironde.

Some people who have left comments on the various camper apps dislike the aire, (GPS 45.12557º 0.66600º) saying it is just a carpark with no services, which is quite true. We rather like it though and always go prepared. 

The aire at Blaye with the Citadel behind

Although parts of the town seem a little ‘faded’, the facade’s of the large buildings lining the ‘front’ make a rather elegant group in the evening sunlight. With the impressive Citadel behind and the river alongside there are 360º views to enjoy. The charge for 24hrs parking is €3, paid by credit card at the machine.

The grand facade’s

As we had been driving for four consecutive days we stayed at Blaye for two nights. After a day of showers the wind got up during our second night and roared and howled around, giving the van a real battering. Unfortunately we were sideways on to the wind and at one stage it was so bad I was halfway out of bed with the intention of turning the van round so that we were head on. Eventually it all died down and peace and quiet returned.

Glorious Gruissan

A long overdue update……

After our short stay in Germany and our dash to the sun and warmth of southern France we had arrived at Gruissan and a warm welcome from old friends David and Anne.

For those not fortunate to have been to Gruissan a short description might explain why we keep returning.

A street in the ‘old’ village of Gruissan

Gruissan, as seen from the hills

This ancient village is situated about 7 miles east of Narbonne on the edge of the sea. It is surrounded by a low lying landscape of étang’s, marshes and canals and has always been a fishing village. A large sandbank, now built on and accessed via a long causeway, almost cuts it off from the sea and creates a large calm lagoon. Some years ago a huge marina was constructed beside the old village and is now mooring for many hundreds of boats as well as apartments, restaurants, bars and shops. 

A forest of masts in the marina

There is an Aire de Camping-Car across the causeway and beside the enormous beach but our favourite is situated between the lagoon and the marina. Gentle and calm blue sea on one side, masts and rigging on the other. It is a large and very popular aire which always seems to have a good, laid back atmosphere.Called the Aire of the Four Winds (Aire des Quatre Vents) (GPS 43.10417º 3.09964º) it has the reputation, as the name would imply, of being very windy as cooler air rushes down from the nearby Pyrenees mountains to the south and the Massif Central to the north. This time however we just had gentle breezes off the sea to keep the temperatures comfortable for us northern Europeans.

We stayed for two glorious weeks and spent lazy days alternating between sun and shade, having lunches under the awning, then snoozing for much of the afternoon before a BBQ supper.

Fishing for his supper at sunset

During an evening walk around the marina we bumped into another couple we had met and befriended several years before at Gruissan. Graham and Kath are very experienced motorhomers and we hadn’t seen or heard of them since our first meeting. It was great to see them again and as they also knew David and Anne we were forming our own little Brit community in our corner of the aire.

David and Anne are super keen cyclists and kindly invited me to join them on a few rides. Riding around that area is bliss. Warm weather, mostly flat countryside and cycle paths everywhere make it an absolute pleasure to go for a fairly gentle and sociable bimble without worrying about traffic. David did persuade me to accompany him up into the Montagne de la Clape though. ‘Mountain’ sounds impressive and scary when riding a bike but these are really just rocky, pine covered hills which lie behind Gruissan. David is one of those strange cyclists that actually enjoy climbing hills (Chris Froome and Geraint Thomas are others that come to mind) whereas I will definitely avoid them if at all possible. Still, what I might lack in leg power I can make up with electric power so why not have a go. Even with my battery assistance, when we reached the top and stopped, I was puffing like a knackered old steam engine while David showed no signs of the steep climb. 

Note to self: Must get fitter.

Anne & David. Cyclistes Extraordinaire

After two weeks we moved a short way inland to Homps, (GPS 43.26885º 2.71742º) a small village on the Canal du Midi. It’s another place we have been several times before and we always like the view across the canal to the traditional buildings and roofscapes of the village.

Homps

Canal du Midi

This time it was really hot though and without that cooling sea breeze we found it a bit too hot to be comfortable.

With the weather still looking good we left the Med and started a very slow plod north towards home.

Driving up the A75, probably my favourite road anywhere, we climbed up into the hills heading towards Millau. Just before the famous viaduct we turned west and down into the valley of the River Tarn before climbing back up and on to yet another favourite place.

Lac de Pareloup ( GPS 44.20027º 2.77601º)is a huge man made lake situated some 2,500 ft up in lovely countryside. The Aire de Camping-Car has been formed from the previous Municipal Campsite and still has electric hook-up and water on the pitches. The only real difference is that entry is by credit card operated barrier so there are no staff on site.

A pitch with a view

Due to the altitude the weather can be changeable and sometimes chilly, this time it was perfect. Despite it being a weekend the aire was not at all crowded but there was lots of activity to watch on the water. On Sunday the local sailing clubs were racing and we counted almost 100 boats out on the lake. The mass of white sails against the deep blue of the water was a beautiful sight under a cloudless sky.

A mass of sails

After the racing, evening calm

After four lovely days by the Lac we headed across the hills to rejoin the A75 and then north to the hilltop village of Montpeyroux, just south of Clermont-Ferrand.

The free aire (GPS 45.62493º 3.20109º) is part of the general parking for the village but there are water and dump facilities available. Water requires a jetton (token) from the Marie or Tourist Office.

After a stroll around the village we had a peaceful supper watching the light fade across the hills and the distant lights of villages below start to twinkle in the dark. It is a very pleasant and convenient place to stop for the night.

North again the next day and on to another favourite at Sancoins. The canal side aire (GPS 46.83404º 2.91575º) seems to become more popular every time we go there and this time, although we arrived in time for a late lunch, there was only one spot left on the canal bank.

The peaceful Canal du Berry

After three nights it was north again to La Mailleraye and another three nights by the Seine before our return home.

Cruising the Seine in style

It had been six glorious weeks and just over 2,000 miles. Apart from a couple of tiny showers, which weren’t enough to even dampen the ground, the weather had been perfect. We had met lovely people and had perhaps the best holiday ever……………..until the next time.

A much delayed update

Ok, OK, I know the blog hasn’t been updated for ages but once again an acute attack of laziness overtook me. Once we got home the garden had reverted to a poor imitation of jungle and sorting that out plus the other necessities of life seemed to take over.

Meeting an old mate and fellow Vulcan Volunteer, ‘Shackers’, at RIAT I was forcibly reminded to get on and complete the blog. So here goes……..

Regular readers, if there are any left, might recall that we had got as far as the Canal du Midi at Homp after our drive south through the Ardeche and spending some time by the Med. at Gruissan. We were now starting to slowly head north and home.

Leaving Homp we drove through the extensive Minervois vines heading for Beziers and the A75 towards Millau. Just short of the Millau Viaduct we turned west and through the hills to Lac de Pareloup (GPS 44.20027º 2.77601º) and its lovely aire on the steep banks of the lac. We have been there several times and it is now firmly on our ‘favourites’ list. With the weekend approaching and good weather we expected the aire to be really busy but there was loads of room with only about 15 out of 70 plus pitches taken.

The almost empty aire at Lac de Pareloup

A pitch with a view

Evening storm clouds gather

Lac de Pareloup is about 2500ft high in the hills and so the weather can be changeable to say the least. With thunder storms all around we were lucky to miss them all but after four lovely days the forecast started to look a bit dodgy so we continued our way north.

Our next stop was at a site recommended a couple of years ago by our caravanning friends Jenny & John, https://jennyandjohngocaravanning.wordpress.com.

Campground Huttopia at Beaulieu sur Dordogne (ex Camping des îles. GPS 44.97957º 1.84196º) is on an island in the Dordogne and right beside the lovely old village of Beaulieu. The approach needs some care if you are in a high vehicle as not only do you need to negotiate the narrow street from the village centre but there is a 3m high footbridge at the site entrance. We just scrapped through, literally, as the satellite dish was just touching the wood work. There is another side entrance, which we later found, with has no restrictions. That entrance is off the D12 and past the Aire de Camping-Car under the high road bridge that crosses the river. (GPS 44.97738º 1.84196º) That gives you a back way in to the site.

Beware! Low entrance.

It is a lovely, well cared for site, much of it under trees for shade but there are also open areas with plenty of sun. Our pitch was right beside the river and apart from the distant roar of water pouring over a weir, was very peaceful. Although we didn’t use any of the loos and facilities they all appeared to be of a very high standard.

Our peaceful pitch beside the river.

A short walk through the site entrance and you are right in the middle  of the village with its medieval centre. Narrow cobbled streets and alleys, some entrered through stone arches, a huge 13th century abbey church, market square and plenty of bars and restaurants. The church was once part of a benedictine abbey around which the village was originally developed.

Original entrance to the village.

 

Mellow stone buildings and cobbled streets.

Archways, towers and timbers.

An elegant village square.

The impressive entrance to the abbey church.

Cross the footbridge over the river for lovely views of the Dordogne and another church that stands on the edge of the village with a string of attractive houses beside the water. It all makes an extremely scenic and photogenic picture. There are plenty of benches on both sides of the river to rest on and enjoy the views.

Lovely old riverside church.

An attractive group of riverside houses.

A gabare moored on the Dordogne.

As I mentioned before, there is an Aire de Camping-Car just outside the site and along side the ‘back road’. It looked pretty basic with a pay machine and not much in the way of views. OK if you just want to visit the village but I would rather pay a few more euros and enjoy the site which takes ACSI cards and so isn’t too expensive out of high season.

After three nights at Beaulieu we only had a week of our trip left so we continued north. Across country to join the A20 motorway, past Limoges and Chateauroux and then onto the D2020 to Salbris and Camping de Sologne. (GPS 47.43025º 2.05475º)

This pleasant site is set beside a lake with a short walk round the lake to the village for morning croissants from the excellent boulangerie by the bridge. This is another ACSI site and there is always a warm welcome from Christine who runs the site with her husband. The weather was lovely so we spent three days enjoying the sun and moving under a shady tree when it got too hot.

Our lakeside pitch.

With just a few days remaining we continued north and back to La Mailleraye-sur-Seine for a couple of nights and then to Cite Europe for our last night before getting the train home next morning.

We had a terrific  six weeks and had driven for just over 2,000 miles through France. We met up with good friends and enjoyed weather from snow to hot sun.

Must do it all again soon.

Has the weather gone bonkers?

After only 11 days back home from our last short French trip we were back through the tunnel and  at Cite Europe once more. After a pleasant meal out and a stocking up session in Carrefour the next morning saw us driving south on the well worn route to La Mailleraye-sur-Seine, among our favourite places in France.

Watching the ships go by

We stopped for four nights by the river, the first couple of days were very pleasant and we were able to sit on the river bank enjoying the views and the sun. On Sunday it rained for most of the day and then hammered down during the night. Monday morning was cold and damp as we got ready to move on. 

As we drove out of La Mailleraye it started to snow!!! This was the last day of April and the next day was Mayday, it was almost summer…….what the heck was going on?

If we were 3000ft up in the Alps it might be understandable but we were driving beside the River Seine, not much higher than sea level. It wasn’t just a bit of sleet or a tiny flurry either, this was serious heavy snow that was starting to lay on the fields and roadside. The temperature sensor was showing 2ºc, the windscreen was misting up despite the blower going full belt and snow was building up on both sides of the screen.

By the time we were well south of Rouen the snow stopped and very gradually the sky lightened and the temperature rose a little although the light rain continued.

We were heading to Sully-sur-Loire, a small town dominated by an impressive ‘fairy tale’ chateau.

As we approached the town, crossing the bridge over the Loire, the chateau certainly impressed with its towers and pinnacles. Turning across the front of the chateau we followed the road beside the river and at the end of the chateau grounds was our Aire de Camping Car (GPS 47.77111º 2.38407º). 

Aire de Camping Car at Sully

Negotiating the entrance took some care as it is a tight chicane guarded by huge rocks and stout posts. Once inside there was plenty of space with marked out bays and we found a good spot with a view of the river. The excellent aire is free with free water and waste facilities.

From the aire one can walk to the town through the grounds of the chateau which is in public ownership. It really is a lovely place and is now on our favourites list. Oh, another plus point…..a bread van called at the aire in the morning, just in time for breakfast. The croissants were wonderful!

Mirror image

Reflections

Blossom by the water

After two very peaceful nights at Sully we had a short drive through lovely countryside to another regular favourite of ours. Sancoins, with its free aire beside the disused Canal du Berry is always a pleasant place to spend a few days, particularly when the sun shines. It’s one of those aires where you can put chairs, tables and awnings out on the canal bank and enjoy the peace and quiet.

The aire at Sancoins

Enjoying the sun

Canal du Berry

We had several very pleasant days beside the canal at Sancoins where, at last the weather was kind.

After we left Sancoins we went south to our next stop at Montpeyroux, a small hilltop village just off the A75 between Clermont-Ferrand and Issoire. The free aire (GPS 45.62373º 3.199110º) is on the edge of the village in the car parking area and has wonderful views across the hills and mountains that still had snow on the slopes. As night fell we ate dinner watching the twinkling lights in the villages below and distant lightning flashing in the clouds.

Snow capped hills. The view from the aire

Village map

Montpeyroux

Keeping watch over the valley

Lovely mellow stone houses

The following day we continued down the A75 before turning on to the N102 past Brioude and on to another lovely village at Lavaudieu.

The entrance to Lavaudieu

Place de Marie

Church tower

After a wander around and plenty of photos we continued south to our overnight stop on the free aire (GPS 45.07492º 3.76167º) beside the aerodrome at Loudes, not far from Le Puy-en-Velay. Although there is a parachute club there it was all very quiet with just two small aircraft taxying out and one of those returning to the hangar with a rough sounding engine.

The aire and airfield at Loudes

Fortunately, by this time the ‘bonkers’ weather was a distant memory.

To be continued………….

Catching up

It’s a hot sunny day and we are beside the Canal du Midi, the temperature gauge is showing 32ºc and we are hiding in the van trying to keep cool.

It is past the middle of May and we have been away for a month…….time to get the laptop out and start updating things.

I was jolted out of my lazy holiday reverie a few days ago by one of the many followers of this blog who reminded me that I hadn’t updated the blog or a  thread that was running on the Motorhome Fun forum. There is quite a lot to catch up on so here is the first part………….

The last time this blog was updated we had just returned from what was to have been a winter of warm sun and relaxing days in Spain and Portugal. It didn’t work out as planned as the weather was pretty awful for the first part and then we both got flu and feeling rather grotty we decided to return home. We got home in time for New Year but really didn’t feel much like celebrating.

While we haven’t been on any long trips since New Year we haven’t been entirely inactive.

Celine, our Carthago C-Line, needed a habitation service in February and as it has to go to our dealer in Staffordshire we made a short break of it. We had three nights at Drayton Manor C&CC site, not our first choice but our favourite site near there was solidly booked because of the NEC show. The weather was mediocre but we were away in the van so who cared?

We had a quick trip to Lincolnshire in March for our usual, much needed, dose of jet noise at RAF Coningsby. Just two nights away but it was good weather and some good flying.

For the last three years we have taken out a Frequent Traveler package with Eurotunnel which gives us 5 return crossings to France within 12 months of renewing the package. Our package expires in early June 2018 and we still had two unused returns. Not wanting to see them go to waste we took a short trip across to northern France early in April with the intention of a longer trip in May and early June.

After the usual late afternoon crossing on 5th April we stopped at Cite Europe for the first night before driving south to Neufchâtel-en-Bray.

There is an excellent aire on the edge of town which is attached to the next-door campsite. Entrance is through a credit card barrier and the 14 well laid out pitches all have 10a hook-up.

Each pitch is on hard standing with an equal size patch of well mown grass to relax on. Everything is kept immaculate, even the hedges between the pitches are trimmed to within millimetres. Outside the aire is a disused railway which has been well surfaced and is now a Greenway/Avenue Vert. There are lovely walks/cycle rides through a beautiful valley.

View from the greenway.

 

The chateau at Mesnières-en-Bray, a short cycle ride from the aire.

At €12 per night it’s not the cheapest aire but is highly recomended.

After three nights we moved a little further south to La Mailleraye-sur-Seine for four nights but as the weather was looking poor we headed back home.

Harry keeping watch

Our next and current trip was to be much longer and the updates will be along soon……….

“Go South”, They Said.

“It will be warmer’, they said.

“Spain is the place”, they said.

So we did! The further south we went the colder it got!

We are now in Salamanca, it is almost midday as I write this, the sun is shining but the trees are still white with frost.

Frosty trees and it’s almost midday.

For some time we had been contemplating heading to Spain to cut the long grey winter months short. A couple of months sun and warmth seemed so much more preferable than cold, damp cloudy skies.

We left home a week ago with a pristine clean and shiny motorhome. It had been dry for ages and Celine, our Carthago C-Line, had been washed and polished ready for our long trip.

Predictably, the day we left was wet so my spotless van was mucky before we even reached Folkestone and the tunnel. Our exit also coincided with what the weathermen call an ‘Arctic Plunge’. Weather fronts are no respecters of national borders and this Arctic Plunge wasn’t going to be stopped by the English Channel. Oh no, it marched right on down, across France and into Spain.

We usually stop at aires in France, perhaps breaking our journey with the odd day or two at favoured places. We plan to reach our night stop by early afternoon, so driving for 3-4 hours per day. It can easily take us more than a week to get towards Spain. This time, with very cold weather, we didn’t break the journey with prolonged stays anywhere.

First night, after a late PM crossing in the tunnel, we stopped at Cite Europe, right next to the tunnel terminal. Next day, south for a night at La Mailleraye-sur-Seine, then crossed the Loire at Saumur, stopping at Montreuil-Bellay for the third night. For much of the route the cointryside was covered in a think layer of overnight snow although, thank goodness, the roads were clear.

Montreuil-Bellay aire.

After Montreuil we headed south west to Blaye, the wine town on the banks of the Gironde river.

The aire at Blaye.

The aire and the mighty River Gironde.

Blaye.

As we arrived the sun popped out for a while and we wrapped up warm and went to explore the Citadel which overlooks the town and river.

The impressive and very solid Citadel.

The Citadel looks over the town.

On Sunday we threw caution to the wind and splashed out on the toll road from Bordeaux to Biarritz. There are a couple of diversions off the motorway which avoid the peage but we thought the three payments of €5.40 + €1.90 were worth it for the easier and quicker drive.

We stopped at Aire de Camping-Car Gabrielle Dorziat (Camper Contact 51886) on the edge of Biarritz. With credit card access through the barrier the aire has electric hook-up plus the usual water and dump facilities. It is extremely quiet and right beside a country park, popular with local dog walkers. At €12 it is pricey for an aire but considering the facilities and where it is must be considered a fair price. At last the temperature was a little warmer and the sun once again popped out from behind the endless clouds for a few moments.

Aire at Biarritz

The house rules.

After a very quiet night we hit the peage again to cross into Spain. We took the N1 south from San Sebastian, joining the A1 to Vitoria-Gasteiz then the AP1 to Burgos.

The first part of the journey is through quite built up and industrial areas which, combined with the low cloud and wet roads made the drive very forgettable. We drove on into a more rural landscape which was covered in snow, fortunately the roads were clear.

Well south of Burgos the snow had gone and we pulled off the motorway for our overnight stop at Torquemada.

We last stopped there almost two years ago on our way to Portugal. There is a small aire next to an old chapel and cemetery, which means its dead quiet at night. Although the aire is just beside the road on a junction most of the passing traffic is tractors coming and going between the fields.

The aire at Torquamada, complete with storks nest on the chapel.

A frosty start to the day again as we left Torquemada with the sun rising in a blue sky. It looked like being a nice day at last. As we started to drive it became more and more misty until we were in a thick freezing fog. The fog lasted all the way to Salamanca and as we parked at our campsite large slabs of ice slid from the front of our mirrors. So much for the blue skies.

So, here we are, high up on the Spanish plains. The sky is blue and the sun is at last shining, although its jolly cold. Not entirely surprising as we are over 2500ft high and have been for the last couple of days. Our friends Jenny and John have just arrived from down south where they have had unbroken blue sky for weeks.

We will be heading that way in a couple of days time.

On the Road Again.

Here we are in France again. It is September and already the leaves on the trees are starting to change colour and drop. Where did summer go?

Following my last blog entry we haven’t been entirely static.

After arriving back from France in early July and spending a few days at home we went to Gloucestershire for the Royal International Air Tattoo (RIAT) at RAF Fairford. Like the last couple of years we stayed on the C&MC rally field just outside the airfield. We drove down on the Tuesday before the show and stayed until the following Tuesday. Plenty of time to see the arrivals and departures as well as all of the flying, most of it right over our heads. Highlights for me were seeing some American aircraft I hadn’t seen before, including the U2 spy plane, the B1 (Bone) bomber and the star was the B2 Stealth Bomber. The B2 flew across the Atlantic from its base in Missouri, flew through, turned and flew past again, then returned to its American base. It really did look like something out of Star Wars. Incredible!

The eerie sight of the B2 Stealth Bomber. Like something from another world.

The BBMF. Music in the sky from seven Merlins and a Griffon.

The Reds escort their American guests, the Thunderbirds.

We had a very pleasant week of jet noise, had some visits from old Vulcan friends and the weather played ball most of the time too.

Back home from RIAT and there was a list of jobs to do around house and garden. One job I may live to regret was improving the lawn. The grass on our lawn has always been poor and it easily gets infested with weeds and moss. The advantage has been that we can go away for several weeks at a time and the grass hardly grows. A quick whizz round with the mower has the lawn looking neat and tidy again. Over the last year or two we had accumulated a large amount of garden compost and soil so I thought it would do the lawn good to spread a few barrow loads over and brush it into the grass. A few days of manual weeding and spreading compost resulted in the grass looking darker and healthier than it ever has. I think I might regret that decision when we return home to waist high grass after this trip.

Celine the motorhome went into a local company to have VB full air suspension fitted while we were home. We got fed up with crashing and banging along British roads and felt that the interior would eventually be shaken apart. A combination of hard commercial tyres and springs, plus pot holed roads, is not good for comfort.

After just over three weeks at home we got itchy feet again so took a short trip up to Lincolnshire and a few nights at Jasmin Camping (https://jasmincamping.com), just outside Sutton by Sea. The site is owned by Jim Brown who runs Motorhome Fun, the web forum and club. It’s a small CL type of site and is right next door to the C&MC Club site but at half the price per night. While there we managed to get a couple of days at RAF Coningsby for another dose of jet noise.

Jasmin Camping.

Another few days at home and with our list of jobs complete we once again headed down the A12, this time with a more subdued and comfortable ride, and the Channel Tunnel for our late afternoon crossing to France.

The aire at Cite Europe was much busier than usual, there must have been 30 vans parked up.

We bought a few essentials from Carrefour, filled with fuel and after a quiet night headed south to our usual stop at La Mailleraye-sur-Seine.

As it was the end of August we expected the aire to be quite busy but even over the weekend it was only half full. I wonder if the new credit card barrier is putting people off?

The Seine

After three nights on the Seine and the weather forecast looking a bit ‘iffy’ we headed south again and another favourite place in the centre of France. The free aire at Sancoins is always busy but there is plenty of room and most people seem to just use it for a night stopover. It is quiet and peaceful with pleasant walks beside the disused Canal du Berry or into the town. We usually stop for a few days as it’s the sort of aire where you can get the chairs and awning out and enjoy the sun beside the water.

Sancoins Aire

We arrived to find it very busy and were a little concerned to find a family of itinerants, complete with roaming dogs and children, had set up a long term camp with motorhome, van and car. Although we stayed two nights the place didn’t seem so relaxed and easy going as usual, likely due to our prejudices. Whatever the reason, we were aware of being more vigilant than we usually would be so didn’t feel as comfortable.

It seemed that unsettled weather was covering most of France after the very hot spell that had lasted several weeks. South seemed a better bet so on Tuesday we once more hit the road for the 400km drive south to Lac de Pareloup.

After driving across country to Clermont-Ferrand we joined the fabulous A75 motorway south, stopping for a lunch break at a rest area overlooking one of Monsieur Eiffel’s lesser known erections, the Viaduc de Garabit. Perhaps not so perky and erect as his better known one.

Viaduc de Garabit

We arrived at the lake in brilliant sunshine. Hooray!

Evening sunshine by the lake

Over the Hills and Far Away.

After several days of warm sunshine and cool mountain air we tore ourselves away from the lovely views of the Vercors mountains to head west to the high hills of the Aveyron.

We retraced our route down the mountain and back to Grenoble, this time keeping to the west of the city and through the valley to Valence and the bank of the mighty River Rhone. We left the Rhone south of Valence and took to the hills of the Ardeche, driving through Privas to our intended night stop on the aire at Aubenas.

We arrived in time for lunch at a very hot and rather dusty car park (GPS 44.62585º 4.39713º no services) on the bank of the Ardeche river. The pictures in our aire guide showed plenty of trees for shade but in the middle of the day all the shady spots were filled by cars. We has some lunch and then decided, as it was so hot and the old town was a fair climb up the hill on the other side of the river, to go on and find another aire that might be a little more shady.

We continued west along the N102 to the small town of Thueyts where there is a quiet and shady aire tucked away down a side road (GPS 44.67247º 4.21912), beside tennis courts and football pitches. Access to the aire is down one of two roads, one little more than an alleyway and a very tight turn if arriving from the west but OK’ish if coming from the East. Far better to use Chemin de la Condamine (set GPS 44.67468º 4,22003º into the sat-nav for the junction) which is a few hundred metres to the East.

A short stroll from the aire is a viewpoint looking down on the Ardeche river far below and the famous Pont du Diable, the Devils Bridge. On a hot afternoon people were jumping off high rocks into the river and swimming across to a small stony beach.

 

Pont du Diable (Devils Bridge) from the viewpoint.

 

The following day, 21st June, we continued West on the N102 following the Ardeche on a spectacular and twisty road high over the hills. The scenery is dramatic, wild and lovely as you climb and climb before crossing the River Ardeche where it is little more than a rushing stream.

Through Pradelles and then follow the N88 to Mende and eventually the A75 motorway. Turning off the A75 we went down some rather narrow and winding lanes to go cross-country to Salles-Curan and Lac de Pareloup.

We found the aire at Lac de Pareloup (GPS 44.20027º 2.77601º) in September 2016 and loved it (more pictures and description here:- https://motorhomemoments.wordpress.com/2016/10/03/simply-sublime/). This time we spent almost a week just lazing in the sun, enjoying the views across the water and the sunsets.

Our sunny pitch

Lunchtime refreshment

Sunset over the lake

The end of our trip was by now fast approaching so we left our lake and started the journey north. After stocking up with food and fuel at Pont-de-Salars we headed to Rodez, then North West towards the Dordogne and our overnight stop at Souillac.

There had been mutterings on Motorhome Fun forum that there was now a charge for stopping on the aire (GPS 44.89152º 1.47653º) that has always been free. Although there is a charge, by credit card, for water and toilet disposal, the aire is still free and shows every sign of staying that way.

We have stopped at Souillac many times and the aire is usually very busy and can be packed tight by evening but this time there was stacks of room. It is still a lovely town to wander round with lots of narrow streets as well as the famous domed Abbey Sainte-Marie which dates back to the 12th Century.

Abbey Sainte-Marie

Soillac flowers

Interesting doorway

Soillac backstreet

Cafes and squares

Continuing north the next day we hit the free A20 motorway which took us round Limoges and on to Vierzon where we joined the D2020 as far as Salbris and another regular stop-over. There is always a cheerful welcome at Camping de Sologne (GPS 47.43025º 2.05457º) and although there are a couple of free aires just a few km up the road we just like it there. With a good view over the lake with its ducks and resident goose and a reasonable meal in the restaurant plus bread in the morning it makes a first class nights stop.

Camping de Sologne from across the lake

 

River Sauldre at Salbris

More driving the next day, through Orléans, round Chartres & Dreux then South of Rouen to make our way to La Mailleraye-sur-Seine for a couple of nights on the river bank.

By this time the weather forecast wasn’t looking good, with rain forecast for several days. Rather than sit and look out at miserable weather I got on-line and brought our tunnel crossing forward by a day. Sure enough, on Sunday as we left La Mailleraye the rain started and didn’t stop until we were past Bologne. We drove to Cite Europe and after filling with fuel and stocking up on essentials (beer) spent the night on the aire/carpark (GPS 50.93282º 1.81111º) before crossing for home the next morning.

Considering we had started out on the trip with the intention of going to a wet and windy Scotland it had been quite a contrast. We had certainly seen our share of hills and mountains although they were a fair bit higher than the Scottish ones. Without doubt the weather had been a lot warmer and sunnier and we had had the good company of Jenny and John for part of the time. As trips go it was 10/10.

Heading Home.

Leaving ourselves a comfortable six days to get back to northern France we set off on a cool but sunny Sunday morning. After a stop for supplies at Lidl then gas and diesel it was good bye to the Costa’s and out on to the excellent Spanish roads and northwards. Once again breaking my usual rules we took the toll road over the hills and across the French border, leaving just past Perpignan. The motorway was quiet and an easy drive and well worth the few Euros it cost in tolls. The rest of our route would be free of tolls.

With the low winter sun behind us lighting up the hills and villages the drive was just beautiful. The quality of light was completely different to the harsh, bright, overhead sun of summer. Everything looked softer with the buildings reflecting the sunlight from their mellow stones.

Through the low lying plain around Béziers then on to the excellent and toll free A75 towards the high hills in the distance. Then the start of the steep climb up, up, up, and into the Massif Central with its spectacular scenery. As we approached Millau we left the motorway and dived down into the town and back up the other side, avoiding the toll section across the viaduct. As we are 4.5 Tonnes and over 3 metres high we are likely to get stung with high charges and as the drive through the town only takes about 15 minutes longer and is very scenic we always take that route. You also get to see more of the viaduct than you would driving over it.

Back onto the A75 for a few km and we exit where the motorway drops steeply into the Lot valley and to our overnight stop at La Canourgue.

No raves allowed here…….even for dogs.

We previously stopped at the free aire at La Canourgue (GPS 44.43339° 3.21173°) earlier in the year and were very taken with the village. This time, although it was getting late in the afternoon, we went for a stroll round the narrow back streets and alleys with water rushing and gurgling through streams and gullies everywhere.

 

The streams disappear under buildings, houses bridge some of the alleys and you feel that you could be back in medieval times. Everywhere was dressed with Christmas decorations and the whole place had a Christmassy and wintery feel about it.

No el. Look closely…………gedit?

 

After a very cold night with a hard frost we set off again and back on the A75 north to Clermont- Ferrand. Leaving the motorway we took the D2009, driving through pleasant countryside on another sunny day. Our destination this time was yet another stopover at Sancoins, one of our favourite aires (GPS 46.83402° 2.91576°).

Winter sunrise over the canal.

On Tuesday it was a ‘cross country’ day as we took to more minor roads, crossing the River Loire at Beaugency, heading towards Chateaudun. Bypassing the old town we joined the N10 north to Bonneval. Sitting beside the Loire, Bonneval is another very old town with lots of history. The free aire (GPS 48.17943° 1.38827°) is in a car park beside the ancient walls of a Benedictine abbey dating back to 800 and something. It is now a mental hospital but the magnificent gate house and walls are impressive.

Hospital entrance.

A stream, complete with a good population of ducks, forms a sort of moat around the old town, crossed by narrow stone bridges. It is all a very attractive setting to spend some time in and wander around. We arrived with some trepidation as half of the large car park had been taken over by a travelling fair who seemed to be making it their winter quarters. When we arrived we were the only motorhome there but by evening there were 7 of us squeezed in. The water was still turned on and as there was no jetton required we made the most of it and topped up the tank.

On Wednesday we skirted round Chartres and continued north to possibly our favourite aire in France…..if only the weather were warmer, then it would definitely be favourite.

We arrived at an almost deserted La Mailleraye-sur-Seine aire (GPS 49.48334° 0.77386°) in more lovely winter weather, cold but sunny. After lunch we set out for a short walk along the towpath, which turned into a much longer walk as we went round in a large circle and arrived back from the opposite direction.

I’ve just totted up the number of nights we have spent at La Mailleraye this year and it is an amazing 21 nights………….do you get the impression that we might rather like it there?

After a second lazy day by the Seine we set the sat-nag to take us to Calais and the aire at Cite Europe (GPS 50.93282° 1.81111°). Arriving in the early afternoon we has lunch then set out to empty Carrefour of wine, beer and frozen sauté potatoes. If, like me, you like sauté potatoes you really must try Carrefour’s own brand, cooked in duck fat. They are to die for!

So, that is just about the end of our un-planned, last minute dash to the sun.

It has been a good trip despite the weather at the start. The thing that I think we will both remember most though is the drive back north. The sun shone the whole way back, the views were just stunning in the winter light and we stopped at some lovely places.

Before our next long trip Celine has to have a new windscreen fitted and needs the engine serviced for the first time. In February she is booked in for her second habitation service and check and has a few warranty issues to be sorted. Once that is all done we can start planning the next adventure. Bring it on!